- Seed Starting:
- Seed Storage Tips:
The Yellow and Red Fig Pear Heirloom Cherry Tomato are an old rare heirloom variety dating back to 1850s when it was originally sold by The David Landreth Seed House of Philadelphia. (1) This variety was often dried in the sun / dehydrated and used as a preserved winter food source. It is a versatile cherry tomato variety producing abundant yields. The parent plant of these seeds comes from an organic Amish grower and have been grown in a hydroponic environment. This seed is ideal for growing in a hydroponic or aeroponic system such as the vertical Tower Garden FLEX or Farm Stand with a trellis support to the side. It would also do well in a Bato Bucket system with either vertical or side support as vines get 5-6' long. Final fruit size is around an inch-and-a-half (1½"" inches) and pear shaped (see photo).
• Name: Red and Yellow Fig Pear Cherry Tomato | Solanum lycopersicum
• Type of Cultivar: Indeterminate Heirloom Cherry Tomato Variety
• Breed: Open Field and Hand Pollinated
• Fruit Shape: Small Pear
• Days to Maturity: approx. 58
• Epigenetic Growing Conditions of Parent Plant (Parentage DNA):
• Hydroponic-Adapted Seed: will grow in soil, but especially ideal for Hydroponic, Aeroponic, Aquaponic growing conditions.
• Grown using organic growing practices on our farm including beneficial biological foliar teas.
• Quantity: Approximately 12 seeds p/packet. Seed has been fermented to reduce potential for disease as well as recently tested for ideal germination and results will be provided on seed label.
Click "Seed Starting" tab above for recommended Seed Starting Instructions
• Seed Starting Tips:
• There's a "sweet spot" for starting tomato seedlings. With a little pre-planning and marking your calendar, you can be ready to start your seedlings and be set up for success.
• We can often get too eager and start seeds too early, only for young seedlings to run out of options to tap nutrients before they hit their growth spurt before entering into the flowering stage. We recommend waiting to start seed indoors 8 weeks prior to your last average frost as well as timing it to transplant when nightly temps are consistently above 65ºF.
Step 1: To find your average nightly temps, visit here.
(TIPS: To select your city, type your city in search bar in the top right of your screen when viewing Web site from a desktop computer. To turn off distracting ads, click lower right text link that reads "Hide Ads".)
Step 2: To find your average last frost date, visit here.
• We recommend starting seed between two pieces of clean paper towel sheets, moistened with non-chlorinated water. Place seed between wetted paper towel sheets in a sealed container like a Tupperware with lid, glass jar with lid, or sealed Ziplock bag. Keep moistened seed in-between paper towel between 72º-75ºF at a constant for 5-10 days. Check each day for germination (root will emerge from seed casing). Be patient, some seeds can take 7-15 days to germinate depending on conditions.
• Once you see the root emerge from the seed casing, ever-so-gently move the seed with root emerging to soil or Rockwool and continue growing on heat mat while keeping seed moist (but not drenched). Place seed in soil/rockwool onto a heat mat with thermostat control set between 72ºF-75ºF and give bright grow / UV lights. Place a small fan in the area for air movement.
• Hydroponic Growers: Plant 1 seed p/ 1.5” rock wool cube.
• Soil Growers: Plant 1 seed p/ cell and lightly cover with 1/8" soil.
• After danger of frost, slowly move your seedling from heat mat and UV lights to the outdoors. Introduce seedling to outdoors during the day when daytime temps are about 65ºF to acclimate seedling for 1 week prior to transplanting.
• Grow Outside: full sun, during the warm season (nightly temps above 65ºF)
Q: What does "Hydroponic Seeds" or "Hydroponically Adapted" in the product description mean?
Q: Did you know that Tomatoes made the EWG's Dirty Dozen List and was number 10 on the list in 2020?
Grow your own tomatoes from seed and keep your body safe from unnecessary pesticide exposure! We show you how to grow tomatoes on the Grow Your Health Gardening web site.
Q: What does "indeterminate", "semi-determinate", and "determinate" variety mean?
A: These descriptors refer to how tall or long the tomato plant will vine. It helps to know because they behave differently in growth habit and fruiting patterns.
• "Indeterminate" indicates that the tomato variety will grow to an undetermined length. It will grow length to the vine continuing to set fruit throughout the season on sections of new growth. These tomatoes need a lot of support to handle vines that can grow up to 10'-12' in some seasons. They also tend to produce fruits throughout the growing season.
• "Determinate" indicates that the tomato variety will grow to a determined length and reach maturity after a determined length of time, setting fruit typically all at one time and then be done. This variety type can have a thicker main stem which helps to support the weight of the plant and usually requires no or minimal staking.
• "Semi-determinate" refers to a tomato variety that is a mix of both—it will grow to a certain point, put on a flush of fruit, but (with proper pruning especially) continue to grow suckers and vine to produce more fruit before fading and stopping all growth and fruit production. This variety type will need some support.
Q: What do the abbreviations mean next to "Tomato Disease Tolerance"?
A: Known disease tolerance or resistance is indicated in parentheses after the variety name. V, F, and N at the end of a variety name indicate known resistance to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and nematodes, respectively. Many factors affect disease resistance and results may vary from region to region and from season to season. Disease resistant varieties will not be totally disease-free but they will resist or tolerate disease better than other varieties. Note that many heirloom tomatoes have not been extensively tested for disease tolerance either in the laboratory, or in extensive field trials - absence of disease resistance information in the variety description does not imply lack of resistance.
|ab = Alternaria (early blight)
|fw2 = Fusarium wilt, race 2
|asc = Alternaria stem canker
|gw = Gray wall
|an = Anthracnose
|gls = Gray leaf spot
|ber = Blossom end rot
|lb = Late blight
|bw = Bacteria wilt
|nhr = Nail head rust
|cf = Cat facing
|rkn = Root knot nematode
|clm = Cladosporium leaf mold
|st = Stemphylium spot
|cr = Crack resistance
|sun = Sun scald
|cs = Crease stem
|tmv = Tobacco mosaic virus
|fw1 = Fusarium wilt, race 1
|vw = Verticillium wilt
very seed has a lifespan and will vary by cultivar, but with some basic good practices you can significanly prolong the life of your seed and protect your investment with a few best practices:
The goal of whatever "container" you choose is to idealy limit moisture and UV light exposure which can reduce germination rates over time. Use a clean and dry glass jar (we like to use an amber colored wide-mouth Mason Jar) with a lid that closes tightly that is large enough to hold several seed packets. Using a cotton ball and rubbing alcohol, wipe down inside of glass jar and allow to completey dry. This step will help to kill any bacteria or fungi residue that could be present on the surface of your jar (especially if your jar has been sitting in storage for awhile).
If you have a food preservation system like a vacuum sealer system or a canister that can seal with a vacuum like this, these work well also — just keep in mind that if you have to access your seed supply, you will have to cut the package open and reseal to put back into storage.